Backpacks and Flipflops: November 2016

Prologue....
Mark Twain writes.....
......Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on those accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things can not be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth for one's lifetime.......

Views from riding the local bus.....

.....from up high....the vistas stream by....to be recorded deep within the synapses and connections of our memories....we are silent witnesses to the world that passes beyond our glass.....

....we sit with, beside, and around locals...we share some smiles, nods, words, food....
....life on a bus can be just an hour...or last a day.....

....quick peeks into a yard....onto a field...along a road...
....we sit gathered.....with our thoughts...our bias....our fears...as the distances are consumed, our unease reduces....

....we look..... we think.... we reflect..... Louis Armstrong sang...What a Wonderful World is This....

...in towns we pass through/stop at roadside grills for bathroom or food...people are busy with life....talking, children head to school, or men sip tea and watch...shops are open...voices ring with laughter...smiles are passed... greetings honoured...

....what are the differences...that feed our fears....stoke our fires of ignorance...or build a barrier that screams We Are Better!....all from the bus....

.....and all so soon...the dress, the language...the beliefs...are embraced.....

Bus Travel........we choose to do it....in Morocco, it is safe, clean and reliable....
...drivers are professional, follow the speed signs, leave/arrive on time...here, like elsewhere...there are a number of bus companies plying the roads... it's always an adventure....

Marrakech, the Medina...and moving on

We arrive in Marrakech after a truly stunning bus ride over the Atlas Mountains from Ouarzazate with the now snow-capped mountains guarding the city below. Will this be our final test of.....Can-We-Handle-Morocco??

We take a taxi to the Bab (gate) nearest to our Riad in the Medina. What a great little find this place is for our stay.

With easy directions, we find the Riad. We are welcomed with tea into this 6-room inn, built around a ground floor garden. This little courtyard is open to the sky. The 2 floors and rooftop terrace are built square shape around the opening.

A very clever rain cover on the top floor opening, prevents rain from falling into the Riad, while directing water to flow into its center and into a drain tube that takes it to water the plants below.

Staff are quiet and respectful. We get superb breakfast meals, wonderful teas and even a warm fire to warm up beside after a rainy day in Marrakech.

The Riads are convent-like quiet throughout our stays in Morocco. Safe, clean, eclectic decor and close to the action.

Have to say that the Marrakech Medina was a bit of a let down after the ones in Fez, Meknes and the many smaller ones we've been to.

Little hassle from bored shopkeepers, easy to navigate and clean. Plus, alleyways all have perfectly laid brick/stone work. A far cry from the jumble, messy and nose cringing warren that's Fez. Even Meknes, with its narrow, crowded walkways provided way more mystery.

Marrakech has been yuppified and given over to the hoards of tourists that now come direct on cheap flights from all points Europe.

The Medina's biggest attraction is the Placè el-Hedim. Here in the main square, like in Meknes, snake charmers, magicians and story tellers weave their spells.

The Plaza was the center for proclamations, executions and selling of people. Today, the focus is on food with several dozen grill vendors offering dim sum/tapas style food ordering. It is a nightly show that draws locals and tourists alike.

Here the rains finally came upon us, so navigating the dripping, sodden byways became something to avoid.

We spent some cozy time in our Riad as the rain pounded down, warm by the fire or under a gas heater. Shayne managed to get a beard trim and fix the soles of his travel shoes.

We visited a few historical sites scattered in the Medina. But, with rain persisting, we decided to move on.

To be fair, if Marrakech is the only place one visits in Morocco, then the Medina would probably fit one's 'romantic' notion of the old world labyrinth with tiny shops still toiling their ancient crafts.

Many stalls are being replaced by modern eateries and European style coffee bars.

Medinas are a very closed in experience. Their high stone walls, covered walkways, the multitude of souks, noise, and smells creates a sensory overload and the feeling of being squeezed. You begin to forget the view of the world extends far beyond the walls.

One can see how insular, secretive and mysterious life was/is for many that see the Medina as their home. Secret passage ways, quiet enclaves...

Good Vibrations...in Essaouira...as breezy as the name sounds.....

Castles made of Sand...and all that stuff....Seems Jimmy Hendrix didn't write his famous hit song here. He'd already written before he spent some days in the walled fortress.

We arrive in Essaouira on the Moroccan Atlantic coastline. It has a cool vibe and a funky, laid back attitude. With the winds blowing here, you do not sit on the beach to tan, unless you want your skin scrubbed off.

This walled city, a fort, sits right up against the crashing surf.

Very different than other Medinas, Essaouira's walkways are open and bright. One never feels claustrophobic here. The town has a similar ambiance to Lagos, Portugal or even Tarifa, Spain.

There are numerous places to eat, have a coffee or just sit and watch the passing parade.

The port is a wonderful working, messy fishing center and the heart of this wonderful town.

Fresh catch is brought in daily...locals, shops and eateries snap up the best early.

Alleyways are filled with all the regular items that we've seen elsewhere.... carpets, leather goods, spices and more....How do they sell this stuff?

These women, part of a cooperative, grind almonds for milk, paste and delicious energy bars which include argan oil and honey.

Shopkeepers are actually helpful and informative, rather than eager to make the sale... although, this soft-sell approach is probably just another angle...

Yvonne's Berber djellabah getting the zipper reattached....20 Dirhams later, done!

The view of the city from the breakwater.

Game of Thrones fans will recognize these walls and ramparts?

It's always a blustery day here. And a magnet for kite surfers...just like Tarifa.

The working port and the little boats that could and do go out every evening to fish far off shore.....

Well known for their handiwork at boat repairs.

Again, the rains return, so after 2 days and one torrential night of rain....we move south...to Agadir and points beyond.

Agadir

We spend one night here before pushing further south.

Agadir was extensively rebuilt after a devastating earthquake leveled most of the city in the 60's. Today the brick and concrete extends almost to the water's edge.