Leaving Puerto Vallarta, we
headed north to Sayulita. Surf was up and the town busy on this section of the
coast. They had just wrapped up a 4-day festival of surf, music and art. Again,
finding a room took some time. Most places were booked, people were helpful
with suggestions about where to stay. Found one by accident when Y looked up at a
building and noticed a sign partially hidden behind the leaves.. Rooms for
Rent. We found someone who could show us a room and took it. Only a block
off the beach, was in a perfect location.
Look south towards Sayulita
Looking north from Sayulita
Did find a quieter beach, Playa Los Muertes (beach of the dead) named because the only access to it is by walking through a very old cemetery in the jungle. Yoga camps, yoga hotels, dreads, loose dogs, big dogs, little dogs, campers on the beach..Sayulita! Did meet some wonderful people, inspiring older travelers at this and Rincon beaches... some of whom have joined our email list.
Shrimp on a skewer and beer, on the beach... how good is that!
Look south towards Sayulita
Looking north from Sayulita
Did find a quieter beach, Playa Los Muertes (beach of the dead) named because the only access to it is by walking through a very old cemetery in the jungle. Yoga camps, yoga hotels, dreads, loose dogs, big dogs, little dogs, campers on the beach..Sayulita! Did meet some wonderful people, inspiring older travelers at this and Rincon beaches... some of whom have joined our email list.
Shrimp on a skewer and beer, on the beach... how good is that!
Just an aside about safety in Mexico.
..many people we come across get quite concerned for our safety when they find
out we've travelled for nearly 3 months in this country. As per the course,
media ramp up the fear and worry factor. One needs to have a critical attitude
to those reports. We have never had an issue. Not to dismiss the issues this
country has and should deal with, for the average tourist traveling with some
common sense, getting around Mexico is an enjoyable adventure.
Leaving Sayulita, we took the local
bus north for about 30 min to the town of Rincon de Guayabitos. Getting a
bus there/or anywhere is pretty simple....just get to the highway (as some
buses do not come into some towns), flag the bus down, pay the driver and away
you go. Rincon is a pretty clean town in a large bay that has two islands off
shore. It is totally and completely devoted to tourists. Many stay for
months in self-contained apts, escaping winter up north. Most tourists
seem to come from western Canada and there are a lot of them!!!
View of the beach from our hotel one block away.
Pineapple vendor on beach.
So, we walked into a bar....(sounds like the opening line of a joke...). Anyway, we walk into this restaurant, a pretty busy place with a pretty good singer. Between songs the performer says into his mike..."Hi Shayne! Isn't it funny how you can run into people from your home town?"
View of the beach from our hotel one block away.
Pineapple vendor on beach.
So, we walked into a bar....(sounds like the opening line of a joke...). Anyway, we walk into this restaurant, a pretty busy place with a pretty good singer. Between songs the performer says into his mike..."Hi Shayne! Isn't it funny how you can run into people from your home town?"
We turn - it's Rick Hayworth
whom we've known for 30 years. He lives here for a lot of the winter and
performs 3 x a week! A few minutes later a random guy approached us after
he'd heard Grand Forks mentioned...."do you know MG?" Another very
good friend from home!!! It truly is a small world after all (can you hum that
tune now? ) - just can't rip off a shirt anywhere anymore - so sad!
Looking for a quieter, less hectic
beach, we took a collectivo to the next bay and the town of Los Ayala.
Saw this harmless jellyfish... and rooster at a more isolated beach a few minutes walk away.
Just before we headed back we stopped at a beach bar. A Mexican family party was going on right beside us on the beach. They waved Yvonne to join in the dancing and eventually waved Shayne down.
Saw this harmless jellyfish... and rooster at a more isolated beach a few minutes walk away.
Just before we headed back we stopped at a beach bar. A Mexican family party was going on right beside us on the beach. They waved Yvonne to join in the dancing and eventually waved Shayne down.
Danced away for about an
hour! Only downside was an uncle/grandfather who'd had too much tequila
and wasn't happy with Shayne dancing with the ladies - he tried several times
to start a fight with S. Family got him back to his room and into bed each
time. Each time he came back, like a woozy boxer getting off the canvas. Final
try ended when he tripped on the beach stairs coming down to S and drove his
head into those thick, solid palapa poles. Down for that count. He was TKO'd.
Luckily he was OK!! It sure was fun trying to learn the dance steps and the hip
movements. Husband of one of the ladies just laughed about it all. Dressed
in a black bandana, black pants, he watched over the goings on and insisted we
stay. See the pic of my new friend - he saved my bacon that day!
The stretch of coast from PV to Rincon
has been way different than the far southern part we traveled in Nov/Dec.
Hordes of North Americans (Invasion of Body Snatchers - they just snatch space,
rooms etc etc) and very little of the feel of Mexico. Beaches overall aren't
really as spectacular as the ones way down south. Locals flock to Rincon on the
weekends - can't imagine what Spring Break is like here; esp this
year as it ties into Easter!
Rincon waters are not very clear and not great for snorkeling. Possibly water conditions improve later in year? We've been surprised how few of the longterm tourists that have been coming to this region for 10 - 20 - 30 years have ventured anywhere beyond where they are staying...it is just so easy to hop on a bus, collectivo, take a taxi and go! Locals are friendly, kind and willing to help. Rincon is like being in a giant, all-inclusive resort. And staying in an All Inclusive there provides an additional insulation factor...nicked by a thousand tourists..
Rincon waters are not very clear and not great for snorkeling. Possibly water conditions improve later in year? We've been surprised how few of the longterm tourists that have been coming to this region for 10 - 20 - 30 years have ventured anywhere beyond where they are staying...it is just so easy to hop on a bus, collectivo, take a taxi and go! Locals are friendly, kind and willing to help. Rincon is like being in a giant, all-inclusive resort. And staying in an All Inclusive there provides an additional insulation factor...nicked by a thousand tourists..
Rincon's pelican population kept us entertained. If they weren't trying to scarf a free meal from a beach side vendor, they were off shore fishing constantly. Searching above the waters, they instantly plunge like a rock into the water to catch a fish. On and on as dozens of pelicans took a bite out of a school fish.
Shayne lining up for food just like the pelicans!!
La Penita, the next town to RinCon is separated by a river, It is the working, nontouristy flip side to Rincon. While some tourists stay there, the beach at LA Penita isn't that clean. Took a collectivo there and got stuck behind a garbage truck making the rounds. Phew.. That sums up our trip in a nutshell to La Penita.
Finally...... found paradise north of
the dashboard and stop lights of Rincon at the beach town of Chacala,.....got
there by waving down the highway bus, (but not before a collectivo van decided
we should be picked up -problem was the van was in the outside lane with
traffic going by at a 100km. Van moved over a lane, slowed down, which caused
the speeding car behind it to hit its brakes and avoid crashing into the back
end).
Bus dropped us off 9 kms from
Chacala...while waiting for a collectivo to take us into Chacala, some
Americans heading that way stopped and offered us a lift in. Nice offer! Walked
around Chacala and looked at a bunch of rooms. Found one for 300 pesos just off
the beach. Simple room and (we discover upon returning from a day on the beach)
located next to the fish store....smell something fishy.
Chacala is one of those small,
slightly disorganized Mexican beach towns with a few services for tourists.
Quiet on the beach, easy on the eyes, sailboats moored in the bay, little kids
just lost in the joy of playing tag with the waves, cold beer, independent and
free travelers....,.it is the place lots of us look for but never find.
Bring a crib board, backgammon or
dice. Get a cold drink and spend time with someone close. Beach is wonderful,
surf is up and pounds in - not sure how good surfing is here?? Water is clean
and you are able to swim for a workout. There's even a hike up the far end of
the bay to an old volcano, who knew? ( Or so the locals tell us- will try to
check it out. ) And, finally, sunsets to die for...directly west and into the
ocean!!
So, to those looking for something
local - Chacala should be checked out. It's about 2 hours north of PV.
Will wrap up for now. Adios for
now...let us know how you are doing. And the recent warm spell north of the
49th // must be playing havoc with the ski hills.
Shayne & Yvonne
PS ...will send another email with
pics, as not everyone is on FB... Remember to drop us a note to let us know
what is going on in your neck of the woods!
