Invasion of the Body Snatchers...beaches of the dead… trapped tourists in fantasy land.. more musings from Canada's 11th province/4t territory

Leaving Puerto Vallarta, we headed north to Sayulita. Surf was up and the town busy on   this section of the coast. They had just wrapped up a 4-day festival of surf, music and art. Again, finding a room took some time. Most places were booked, people were helpful with suggestions about where to stay. Found one by accident when Y looked up at a building and noticed a sign partially hidden behind the leaves.. Rooms for Rent.  We found someone who could show us a room and took it. Only a block off the beach, was in a perfect location.



                            Look south towards Sayulita


                                 Looking north from Sayulita

 Did find a quieter beach, Playa Los Muertes (beach of the dead) named because the only access to it is by walking through a very old cemetery in the jungle. Yoga camps, yoga hotels, dreads, loose dogs, big dogs, little dogs, campers on the beach..Sayulita! Did meet some wonderful people, inspiring older travelers at this and Rincon beaches...    some of whom have joined our email list.




    Shrimp on a skewer and beer, on the beach... how good is that!

Just an aside about safety in Mexico. ..many people we come across get quite concerned for our safety when they find out we've travelled for nearly 3 months in this country. As per the course, media ramp up the fear and worry factor. One needs to have a critical attitude to those reports. We have never had an issue. Not to dismiss the issues this country has and should deal with, for the average tourist traveling with some common sense, getting around Mexico is an enjoyable adventure.

Leaving Sayulita, we took the local bus north for about 30 min to the town of Rincon de Guayabitos. Getting a bus there/or anywhere is pretty simple....just get to the highway (as some buses do not come into some towns), flag the bus down, pay the driver and away you go. Rincon is a pretty clean town in a large bay that has two islands off shore.  It is totally and completely devoted to tourists. Many stay for months in self-contained apts, escaping winter up north.  Most tourists seem to come from western Canada and there are a lot of them!!!


              View of the beach from our hotel one block away. 


                                    Pineapple vendor on beach.

So, we walked into a bar....(sounds like the opening line of a joke...). Anyway, we walk into this restaurant,  a pretty busy place with a pretty good singer. Between songs the performer says into his mike..."Hi Shayne!  Isn't it funny how you can run into people from your home town?"

We turn -  it's Rick Hayworth whom we've known for 30 years. He lives here for a lot of the winter and performs 3 x a week!  A few minutes later a random guy approached us after he'd heard Grand Forks mentioned...."do you know MG?" Another very good friend from home!!! It truly is a small world after all (can you hum that tune now? ) - just can't rip off a shirt anywhere anymore - so sad!

Looking for a quieter, less hectic beach, we took a collectivo to the next bay and the town of Los Ayala.  


Saw this harmless jellyfish... and rooster at a more isolated beach a few minutes walk away.



Just before we headed back we stopped at a beach bar.  A Mexican family party was going on right beside us on the beach. They waved Yvonne to join in the dancing and eventually waved Shayne down.  

Danced away for about an hour! Only downside was an uncle/grandfather who'd had too much tequila and wasn't happy with Shayne dancing with the ladies - he tried several times to start a fight with S. Family got him back to his room and into bed each time. Each time he came back, like a woozy boxer getting off the canvas. Final try ended when he tripped on the beach stairs coming down to S and drove his head into those thick, solid palapa poles. Down for that count. He was TKO'd. Luckily he was OK!! It sure was fun trying to learn the dance steps and the hip movements. Husband of one of the ladies just laughed about it all. Dressed in a black bandana, black pants, he watched over the goings on and insisted we stay. See the pic of my new friend - he saved my bacon that day!

The stretch of coast from PV to Rincon has been way different than the far southern part we traveled in Nov/Dec. Hordes of North Americans (Invasion of Body Snatchers - they just snatch space, rooms etc etc) and very little of the feel of Mexico. Beaches overall aren't really as spectacular as the ones way down south. Locals flock to Rincon on the weekends -  can't imagine what Spring Break is like here; esp  this year as it ties into Easter!

Rincon waters are not very clear and not great for snorkeling. Possibly water conditions improve later in year? We've been surprised how few of the longterm tourists that have been coming to this region for 10 - 20 - 30 years have ventured anywhere beyond where they are staying...it is just so easy to hop on a bus, collectivo, take a taxi and go! Locals are friendly, kind and willing to help. Rincon is like being in a giant, all-inclusive resort. And staying in an All Inclusive there provides an additional insulation factor...nicked by a thousand tourists..

Rincon's pelican population kept us entertained. If they weren't trying to scarf a free meal from a beach side vendor, they were off shore fishing constantly. Searching above the waters, they instantly plunge like a rock into the water to catch a fish. On and on as dozens of pelicans took a bite out of a school fish.

                    Shayne lining up for food just like the pelicans!!

La Penita, the next town to RinCon is separated by a river, It is the working, nontouristy flip side to Rincon. While some tourists stay there, the beach at LA Penita isn't that clean. Took a collectivo there and got stuck behind a garbage truck making the rounds. Phew.. That sums up our trip in a nutshell to La Penita.

Finally...... found paradise north of the dashboard and stop lights of Rincon at the beach town of Chacala,.....got there by waving down the highway bus, (but not before a collectivo van decided we should be picked up -problem was the van was in the outside lane with traffic going by at a 100km. Van moved over a lane, slowed down, which caused the speeding car behind it to hit its brakes and avoid crashing into the back end).

Bus dropped us off 9 kms from  Chacala...while waiting for a collectivo to take us into Chacala, some Americans heading that way stopped and offered us a lift in. Nice offer! Walked around Chacala and looked at a bunch of rooms. Found one for 300 pesos just off the beach. Simple room and (we discover upon returning from a day on the beach) located next to the fish store....smell something fishy.

Chacala is one of those small, slightly disorganized Mexican beach towns with a few services for tourists. Quiet on the beach, easy on the eyes, sailboats moored in the bay, little kids just lost in the joy of playing tag with the waves, cold beer, independent and free travelers....,.it is the place lots of us look for but never find.

Bring a crib board, backgammon or dice. Get a cold drink and spend time with someone close. Beach is wonderful, surf is up and pounds in - not sure how good surfing is here?? Water is clean and you are able to swim for a workout. There's even a hike up the far end of the bay to an old volcano, who knew? ( Or so the locals tell us- will try to check it out. ) And, finally, sunsets to die for...directly west and into the ocean!! 

So, to those looking for something local -  Chacala should be checked out. It's about 2 hours north of PV.

Will wrap up for now. Adios for now...let us know how you are doing. And the recent warm spell north of the 49th // must be playing havoc with the ski hills.

Shayne & Yvonne

PS ...will send another email with pics, as not everyone is on FB... Remember to drop us a note to let us know what is going on in your neck of the woods!