"My confession is I fall in love with so many places...
I'm always half-broken hearted by good byes....
And, I don't believe in non-attachment.
There's no passion inside of that.
I believe in burning and longing.
And, I believe........we leave......
tiny pieces of ourselves in every place we've lived."
- Victoria Erickson
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Prologue....
In every trip we do...... there's an ending... it comes slowly....the realization.... much like a setting sun.. the moment shines in clarity and brightness... it is a bittersweet time....the reflection of the road well traveled... the joy of the journey....the people...places.....connections.... a heart well lived.... a soul filled... and a sadness... for... this trip... always... our last place... is always our best...
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Off the beach and heading inland..
We leave highway 200 and the beach town of Caleta de Campos. We share a taxi for the approx 90 minute ride down the coast to Lazaro Cardenas. Arriving at the bus station, we hop on one that's leaving immediately and settle comfortably in for a 4 hr ride inland to the town of Uruapan.
These are not your 'Greyhound' type of bus.
Driver closes his door much like an airline pilot does.
Notice..... male and female bathrooms... on the bus!
We are given a small snack and drink.
Ride to Uruapan takes us from the humid coast into the dry interior and higher elevations with lush farming everywhere.
Uruapan
Our room for $500 pesos.
Uruapan is known for a longish park running through a section of their city. Developed from a natural flowing spring, into a shaded oasis of running water and lush vegetation.
Seems the only other city spring is found somewhere in Italy.
It's a wonderful getaway from the noise and bustle of the city. A perfect one night stopover in our journey to Patzcuaro. And, a chance to grab a good cuppa Java!
No wonder our hotel was so quiet... seems we have at least a dozen Federales staying there...Complete with all the usual firepower..
Heading to Patzcuaro
Another bus..Wifi...Free movies....internet! Comfy seats!
We continue towards Patzcuaro...
Patzcuaro
An old colonial town about 2100 metres high...it has all the ingredients for anyone interested in staying short term or wintering here.
We get a great room for about $600 pesos, including breakfast, daily housekeeping with new towels, toiletries, water...
The town has many fine examples of old colonial architecture.
A vibrant market..
Patzcuaro is perfectly located for day trips to a number of smaller, artesian villages. Easy bus and Combi/collectivos make travel throughout the region a breeze. Cheap, quick, clean... it's a no-brainer for travel.
Ruins of Tzintzuntzan
The ruins are a 45 minute journey from Patzcuaro
Impressive stone structure dominates the hillside overlooking the village.
A view of Lake Patzcuaro from the ruins.
Village church
Dry flowers gracing the entrance to this ancient church
And 600 year old olive trees in the convent gardens...
Handmade crafts are evident...
Even this guy is for sale...for the right price!
Patzcuaro town centro
How's this for a large broom?
Patzcuaro square entertainment...the 'clapper' dancers seen in most smaller towns. They wear masks and have shoes that make clapping sounds while they tap dance.
The whole family gets involved.
Our favorite little mezcal bar in Patzcuaro.. El Carajo (our Mexican friends insist it means something far worse than damn). The bar comes complete with a wandering caballero showing up for songs and tips.
Elizabeth y Francisco...She runs the best taco stand in Patzcuaro
Battle of the school bands in Patzcuaro park on a Friday night.
The island of Janitzio
We travel to Lake Patzcuaro and hop on one of the many ferry pangas for the 30 minute ride to the island of Janitzio. We are here to see the giant statue of Morelos, a national hero.
See the statue?
Slightly touristy, we climb the steep steps on the island that lead to the memorial.
Even has the requisite fisherman who wait to throw their butterfly nets for the passing panga ferries. Then they paddle over to get their tip.
A local fish delicacy deep fried and sold in little cups.
Morelos
Views up and down inside the statue which is filled with 56 murals depicting his life and death. Too bad we can't understand all the Spanish!
Santa Clara de Cobre
The Copper town...
Again, leaving Patzcuaro for another Artesian village is a snap. Patzcuaro is a collectivo heaven. They seem to out number the cars in the town. With help from a local, we find our ride and head out to the center of copper crafts around these parts.
Artesians use recycled copper wire to make beautiful copper crafts, pots, utensils etc.
The process has changed little over the years.
Pounding.... heating.... pounding.... cooling
Yvonne takes a try....A quick learner ... she's offered a job with the copper guild...
Patzcuaro has these amazing charcoal barbeque grills...we would love to take one home... but, our packs don't quite have the space.
.... carnelitas....Yum, yum!
Quiroga...the leather town
We head to one last Artesian village - Quiroga. Well known for its leather crafts.. they have everything from wallets to shoes, and handbags to jackets.
After wandering around the shops, we stop to eat lunch and try the town's specialty...
.....the famous 'carnelitas', a traditional favourite in the village of Quiroga.....
Patzcuaro Museum
Traditional regional masks from the states of Mexico housed in a gallery in Patzcuaro.
Alberto...The owner of our favorite mezcal bar serenading us.
After nearly a week in Patzcuaro, we sadly pack up and move on.....
Morelia
About an hour down the road, is the bustling, modern busy city of Morelia. With a number of old colonial buildings, we are back in the land of fashion, coffee bars, churches, jazz festivals and symphony productions.
We stay several nights just off the main park, plaza and cathedral.
It's a wonderful, safe city with a lively night life and a mystery disco that starts around midnight near our hotel.
University students add an energy and vibrance, we haven't come across before on our journey.
Wonderful parts that one could stay in.
A free concert by the Michoacan symphony
A free jazz festival in an old walled square
However, we feel the urge to move on. The cooler weather over the past week or so.... is sending us back to the coast and journeying down highway 200 to the town of Zihuatanejo.
Adios for now
Shayne y Yvonne
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"If you limit your choices only to what seems reasonable or possible you disconnect yourself from what you truly want and all that is left is compromise" Anais Nin
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Next time..... Zihuatanejo....(no, it's not where the final scene in Shawshank Redemption was filmed!!)....But, it's the end of the road for us....
Additional Random Photos
Adios!
Yvonne y Shayne
