...roads less travelled continue...
After leaving the fairy tale version of Cuba that are the Cayos, we taxi back for one last night in Morón...
Our favorite casa in Morón is full, so they find us another place across the street to sleep, but only after they've fed us another great meal.
Next morning, we grab a cab for the ride to Ceigo de Avila to catch a bus east to the town of Las Tunas
We are travelling through parts of Cuba that we missed on our 2 month journey last April/May 2014 (see blog archived). We've returned to Cuba, in part to find some decent weather, and see new places, but also to revisit some friends made on the last trip.
Las Tunas is one of those little sleepy towns built around a town square, with a pedestrian plaza for shopping. People are friendly.
Downtown core is very nice. We wander, find a lively street bar overlooking the busy park, sit in on some folk, Cuban rap music played in a little outdoor venue and check WiFi again! Any messages?
One of the changes since last being here about 18 months ago is the access to technology/internet/WiFi.
Last year, most internet was only available in 'gov't controlled internet cafes'. Access cost $6 CUC,/hr, was slow and slow to get on a computer.
This year, access costs $2CUC/hr and speed has improved (here and there). However, the huge step forward (some would argue.... a huge step backwards) is access to WiFi. Costs $2 CUC/hr now, and people are able to use their own phones, tablets, computers freely....and, boy are they!
Parks/plazas at night are filled with people bathed in the soft glow stick light of tech screens. Families talk on Cuban style Skype, people Facebook, friends and lovers connect. No closing this door (Pandora's box?) now on the Cuban people.
Again, one can argue about the decline in Cuban family time and loss of good-old fashion talking!....but......why shouldn't Cubans be allowed the same pleasure that most people in the rest of the world are so addicted to now.....it wouldn't surprise us to see Cuba fully wired with fast, high speed internet before Canada is fully done!
After 2 lazy days in Las Tunas, where surprise, surprise we come across a post office, buy some post cards and mail them off......we pack up our 7 kg packs...and...
.....we next head to quaint Bayamo (or return) to try and once again hike into Fidel' s mountain hideaway where he, his brother, and Ché along with a ragtag group of women/men hid from Batista's army while gathering steam that created the revolution that changed the face of Cuba.
Last year, we headed out from Bayamo to climb to the Comandancia de la Plata only to be turned back by heavy rains that closed road access and the 4 hr hike into Fidel's base camp.
....so, head out from Bayamo and share the taxi with another couple to the tiny village of Santo Domingo, located at the base of the rugged, lush mountains of the Sierra Maestres where a group of underfunded, undersupplied dreamers decided to change the status quo of the times.
We hire a guide/jeep and drive up a 45 degree road for several kms, then get out and start the walk at the trail head!
We soon realize why the trails are closed when the heavy rains come. The wet, goopy mud that covers most of the 4 hr hike in and out sticks onto our shoes, covers the rocks and mixes with the horse shit that lies along the narrow, rock-filled creek beds that form portions of the mountain pathway.
We are deep into thick, leafy vegetation still steamy from an early morning shower. The jungle-like terrain makes it difficult to look around, while the slippery ground makes one wrong footstep a disaster.
Sweaty, hot and dirty....we have achieved a 3 star standard for this journey.
Of course, Shayne slips on a slimy, muddy section of a fallen tree and takes a tumble, almost disappearing down the hillside into the leafy, thick undergrowth.
Apart from a few scrapes, wounded pride, a muddy ass and clay filled shoes, Shayne is good to go up and down stairs and through more mud.
We trudge on and understand why this hideaway was a perfect location to avoid Batista's soldiers.
We visit various sites/buildings of the original camp. Even stop and take a look at Fidel' s own little wooden house, complete with bed (still has the original mattress from 50 plus yrs ago - or so they say - wonder what the bed bugs say in this damp, humid clime?) and fridge ..not for storing a good, cold Cuban beer, but medicine needed during that time.
And, Fidel's own baño!
The visit, much like a walk through old ruins or pyramids, doesn't seem to show a lot, but it's a chance to get up close and personal with a bit of fascinating history.
The kitchen
A lone gravesite of a lost Revolutionary member.
It seems, that privilege has its rewards. This helicopter landing site was built for Fidel's use about 20 years ago
Never mind the politics, left or right.....it was worth the mud and scrapes!
We return to Bayamo with a final look into the valley below... Our guide satisfied with another successful day in the Sierra Maestra.
We spend another night at Casa Vivian's...listening to the neighborhood noises... pigs oinking, dogs barking, cats mewing, roosters crowing, music and the pigeon-whisperer calling his flock back to the roost....2 blasts of the whistle, then a Ha-ha, Ha -ha. And repeat! Sounds of the city!
Shayne finds time for a little face trim in a local barberio! It was a good shave and trim! They were happy to oblige him but really only wanted to tackle his head!! No way!!!!!
We are nearing the end of Cuba, as we head to Holguin. It was the town we started in, on our 2 month journey in Cuba last year!
We revisit the casa family that really did kick off our travels in 2014 to such a good start! They were wonderful to us.
The Villa La Roca of Daniel/Marcia's and Danielle was like a family home to us.
We arrive at the Holguin bus station to cries of "Chaine..Ebon"... Seems our taxi driver shouted our names out too soon, so all the street hustlers started calling our names out...hoping we'd go with them to another casa.
We ignore them and grab our driver and head to Daniel/Marcia's casa. We are greeted with hugs, kisses and no room. Seems success is keeping their 4-room casa pretty full these days.
And, with our random travel schedule we couldn't really tell them for sure, until the night before. As is the case, they've found another casa, just around the corner.
So, Yvonne and Daniel roar off..literally, on his motorcycle, while I'm left holding the bags and follow them.
The other casa is a gem...quiet, away from the street noise and the family are so nice! (Will write another post, just on the Cuban casas ASAP)!
Seems Daniel is doing quite well and very busy....American tourists are coming, some in groups, others are travelling Cuba to see something that may change soon....
In addition to the busy Villa La Roca, Daniel is busy building a Villa La Roca 2.
This new casa is just blocks from the Centro, located on a quiet dead end street. It was built in the 1940's, one floor, but he has plans for another 2!
Daniel takes us there and with great pride gives us a tour of the construction zone. It will be a beautiful, finished casa. Workmanship is fantastic!
Eventually, after the 2nd floor goes on, the family will move in and rent the ground floor to tourists. Completion date in 2016...we look forward to staying in it when we return again.
Holguin was planned to be the end of of our Cuba journey. We thought we'd just book a flight from Holguin to Havana, then fly out to Mexico.
We spend 3 hrs waiting outside the offices of Cuban Air just to see an agent. Finally inside, we find the daily flights are booked solid for the next 10 days.
What the $%&@? Onto Plan B....we briefly consider a 15 hr bus ride to Havana! Briefly, we say!
Plan C comes along....there's a flight from Varadero to Mexico...hmmm! Does mean a shorter bus ride and chance to revisit wonderful Casa Lustre!
We talk with Daniel and he suggests hiring a private taxi...quicker, but more expensive than the bus, but cheaper than flying across Cuba!
After, booking a Varadero to Mexico City flight, we hire the taxi and away we go .....a nearly 800km taxi ride that takes approx 9hrs, across only 1 time zone...
We stop a few times for food, bathroom and gas. The gas station happens to be down an alley and in someone's yard as this is much cheaper than using the conventional gas station. We quickly back in and a tarp is unfurled over the taxi. We are asked to stay inside while the gas jockeys go to work. The set up lacks a bit of professionalism and a lot of safety. Chickens, pigs and dogs wander around the car...However, as usual, it all works and we are soon off.
We zoom across the Cuban landscape in the deepening shadows of the late afternoon sun, as the warm light plays on the surrounding countryside.
We arrive in Varadero to the setting sun bidding Adios to our last full day in Cuba!. We had Daniel phone Lidia (of Casa Lustre) to book us a room. We gave false names, Barney/Wilma (old TV cartoon -The Flintstones), as we wanted to surprise Lidia, her mother and daughter!
Oh boy! Was she surprised and so happy to see us again. We had left some gifts behind several weeks earlier, hidden in the casa, and she wasn't happy about it. She gave us a finger- wag and laughed....asked us, what we were doing back here?
When told about no flights available, and faced with the choice of a long bus ride or taxi, or flying either Varadero or Havana..she laughed..Si...Cuba!
We wanted to be back here, and the welcome was much like family returning home for the holidays! Our Cuban mama! So, great!!
Lidia tells us that's there's a problem in our casa. Seems a gecko has made its way into our toilet and won't leave. Goes out with a flush, but swims back through the pipe and into the bowl. It's pretty big.
She warns us to be careful, especially in the dark and sitting down....all ends well, as Yvonne wraps the poor lizard up in a bag with a quick hand! Happy gecko back in garden! They are just thrilled as they spent 4 hours trying many methods of capturing the 20 cm long critter!!
Adios from Varadero... We are about to board our flight and continue on....
Adios Cuba...see everyone on the other side!
Shayne y Yvonne
PS....this updates the road trip so far..pics/prints! Enjoy!
Random shots...
Never mind the politics, left or right.....it was worth the mud and scrapes!
We return to Bayamo with a final look into the valley below... Our guide satisfied with another successful day in the Sierra Maestra.
We spend another night at Casa Vivian's...listening to the neighborhood noises... pigs oinking, dogs barking, cats mewing, roosters crowing, music and the pigeon-whisperer calling his flock back to the roost....2 blasts of the whistle, then a Ha-ha, Ha -ha. And repeat! Sounds of the city!
Shayne finds time for a little face trim in a local barberio! It was a good shave and trim! They were happy to oblige him but really only wanted to tackle his head!! No way!!!!!
We are nearing the end of Cuba, as we head to Holguin. It was the town we started in, on our 2 month journey in Cuba last year!
We revisit the casa family that really did kick off our travels in 2014 to such a good start! They were wonderful to us.
The Villa La Roca of Daniel/Marcia's and Danielle was like a family home to us.
We arrive at the Holguin bus station to cries of "Chaine..Ebon"... Seems our taxi driver shouted our names out too soon, so all the street hustlers started calling our names out...hoping we'd go with them to another casa.
We ignore them and grab our driver and head to Daniel/Marcia's casa. We are greeted with hugs, kisses and no room. Seems success is keeping their 4-room casa pretty full these days.
And, with our random travel schedule we couldn't really tell them for sure, until the night before. As is the case, they've found another casa, just around the corner.
So, Yvonne and Daniel roar off..literally, on his motorcycle, while I'm left holding the bags and follow them.
The other casa is a gem...quiet, away from the street noise and the family are so nice! (Will write another post, just on the Cuban casas ASAP)!
Seems Daniel is doing quite well and very busy....American tourists are coming, some in groups, others are travelling Cuba to see something that may change soon....
In addition to the busy Villa La Roca, Daniel is busy building a Villa La Roca 2.
This new casa is just blocks from the Centro, located on a quiet dead end street. It was built in the 1940's, one floor, but he has plans for another 2!
Daniel takes us there and with great pride gives us a tour of the construction zone. It will be a beautiful, finished casa. Workmanship is fantastic!
The living room
The kitchen
The back yard
Eventually, after the 2nd floor goes on, the family will move in and rent the ground floor to tourists. Completion date in 2016...we look forward to staying in it when we return again.
Holguin was planned to be the end of of our Cuba journey. We thought we'd just book a flight from Holguin to Havana, then fly out to Mexico.
We spend 3 hrs waiting outside the offices of Cuban Air just to see an agent. Finally inside, we find the daily flights are booked solid for the next 10 days.
What the $%&@? Onto Plan B....we briefly consider a 15 hr bus ride to Havana! Briefly, we say!
Plan C comes along....there's a flight from Varadero to Mexico...hmmm! Does mean a shorter bus ride and chance to revisit wonderful Casa Lustre!
We talk with Daniel and he suggests hiring a private taxi...quicker, but more expensive than the bus, but cheaper than flying across Cuba!
After, booking a Varadero to Mexico City flight, we hire the taxi and away we go .....a nearly 800km taxi ride that takes approx 9hrs, across only 1 time zone...
We stop a few times for food, bathroom and gas. The gas station happens to be down an alley and in someone's yard as this is much cheaper than using the conventional gas station. We quickly back in and a tarp is unfurled over the taxi. We are asked to stay inside while the gas jockeys go to work. The set up lacks a bit of professionalism and a lot of safety. Chickens, pigs and dogs wander around the car...However, as usual, it all works and we are soon off.
We zoom across the Cuban landscape in the deepening shadows of the late afternoon sun, as the warm light plays on the surrounding countryside.
We arrive in Varadero to the setting sun bidding Adios to our last full day in Cuba!. We had Daniel phone Lidia (of Casa Lustre) to book us a room. We gave false names, Barney/Wilma (old TV cartoon -The Flintstones), as we wanted to surprise Lidia, her mother and daughter!
Oh boy! Was she surprised and so happy to see us again. We had left some gifts behind several weeks earlier, hidden in the casa, and she wasn't happy about it. She gave us a finger- wag and laughed....asked us, what we were doing back here?
When told about no flights available, and faced with the choice of a long bus ride or taxi, or flying either Varadero or Havana..she laughed..Si...Cuba!
We wanted to be back here, and the welcome was much like family returning home for the holidays! Our Cuban mama! So, great!!
Lidia tells us that's there's a problem in our casa. Seems a gecko has made its way into our toilet and won't leave. Goes out with a flush, but swims back through the pipe and into the bowl. It's pretty big.
She warns us to be careful, especially in the dark and sitting down....all ends well, as Yvonne wraps the poor lizard up in a bag with a quick hand! Happy gecko back in garden! They are just thrilled as they spent 4 hours trying many methods of capturing the 20 cm long critter!!
Adios from Varadero... We are about to board our flight and continue on....
Adios Cuba...see everyone on the other side!
Shayne y Yvonne
PS....this updates the road trip so far..pics/prints! Enjoy!
Random shots...
Hasta Pronto!!!
