Prologue
Galapagos ...
A place of broken dreams........lost souls...despair and death...the islands were born in a volcanic fury that saw all variety of sea...land and air creatures and fauna ....arrive.....die or thrive.
Only the strong survived here....natural selection, as Charles Darwin noted....allowed species to adapt to conditions....
Darwin's statue at the point where he supposedly landed...
Today... the islands are home to numerous settlers and communities .... an exploding tourism sector who come to see the uniqueness of the Galapagos....the struggle...for the islands....is to manage...the human settlements....the footprints left and the infrastructure needed to support the tourists....while keeping the specialness alive and well.
From the first time humans arrived here...they have plundered.....damaged.....changed ...the delicate balance of natural life and the various ecosystems spread throughout the islands...
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Galapagos Islands straddle the equator west of the Ecuador coastline. We fly in on a Monday....spend 4 full days ...then fly out on a Saturday....
NB: Remember to double click on the images to see them larger...
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We fly out of Guayaquil, Ecuador for the island of San Cristóbal. It is (or should be) an easy 90 minute flight until we are greeted with monsoon rains, thunder, low clouds, which force our pilot to scrub landing. After several attempts to touch down, and now reaching an issue with having enough fuel to get back to the mainland, the pilot gives up and returns to Guayaquil. We gas up and try again...great!!!
We land at sunset about 4.5 hrs later than planned. Customs is easy.... we do have to pay $100 US pp as a conservation fee plus a $20 US visa fee...grab a 5 minute truck/ taxi to the town of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno (see map above), to check into our hotel with a view towards the Pacific.
The humidity is extreme here...sweat is dripping constantly...
As soon as we take our first stroll through town we hear barking which we soon realize are the California sea lions that reside in the central town beach. Even though they are fenced off, many 'escape' and sleep wherever they choose...
It's Shayne's birthday...his 65th! After a long way around in the air to here...time to celebrate!
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Over the next 4 full days on San Cristóbal....we spend our time visiting various spots on the island, swimming with sea lions....viewing the various wildlife, hiring a driver and taking a tour.
Sea lions and sea life are abundant in the waters around San Cristóbal.
Schools of Parrot Fish
Yellow--Tipped Surgeon Fish
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Here Comes the Rain Again.....
The monsoon conditions that hampered our flight into San Cristóbal continued to chase us over the next several days. Generally, the early mornings were rain free, but by noon, the torrential downpours returned with a vengeance.
While water activities like snorkeling wasn't an issue from the cloudbursts, visibility was ...as the bay/waters turned brown from the run-off now pouring in.
We wait it out under shelter talking with all the others doing the same...then head into the park when there's a break.
We walk through the preserve and Interpretative Center on the way to another bay.
Even there, we are forced to call it a day, as the clouds burst overhead. Waters flow into the bays, down streets and even burst through stone walls.
Floodwaters dislodge paving stones
...... 'real' money laundering after getting caught in the rain.
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Tortoise Rehab Center
San Cristóbal is essentially a giant wilderness area, with about 2/3 road free. Getting around the one main road and several side roads involves either joining a tour, renting bicycles, cars or hiring a taxi- truck. As there isn't a local bus system, these are your only options; short of walking or hitchhiking.
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We hire a taxi-truck for several hours and head to the tortoise rehab center. This more northern part of the island is quite lush as we wind our way through small villages. The centre protects the threatened species, breeds them and when old enough returns them to the wild two-thirds of San Cristóbal Isla.
It is a pretty cool place to see these lumbering gentle giants.
This one is believed to be about 75 years of age.
Prior to sailors discovering the Galapagos, there were believed to be over 250 000 tortoises scattered throughout the islands in the 16th C to less than 3000 in the 1970's.
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Within a short time, sailors managed to wipe out several species and reduce the population to several hundred, as they took the tortoises, mainly female, with them on the long voyage home. They had learned that tortoises could survive for up to a year without food...how perfect for the sailors!!! Stuck in the hold, stacked upside down, tortoises stayed alive (and fresh). With so many females taken, breeding became difficult and survival was catastropic.
Luckily their reproductive instinct still remains...
So many were slaughtered on the islands...
Sad indictment of that time.
This centre now works at preserving this magnificent creature by collecting their eggs and taking them to their centre where the babies are protected from predators...most notably rats that were introduced by the sailors. Fine mesh covers are used to prevent their access to the cages until the tortoises teach 7 years of age at which time they are removed and placed in outdoor pens.
So succesful has the recovery been, landowners are complaining about tortoises helping themselves to garden produce.
Scientists and volunteers work with the protection of these animals ...feed them and clean their pens...
Hours could be spent watching them...
And...as it is still a rain-free day ....after leaving the tortoises behind, we head for another beach...to snorkel....look for sea lions and fish...and, the colourful blue-footed boobies.
Our driver, Vicente, joins us...
Beautiful Puerto Chino Beach...too bad the horseflies were so bad!!
It seems the more 'blue' the boobies feet are is a sign of how healthy they are from feeding on the fish.
Gorgeous powdery white sand...
Prickly pear cactus seen everywhere on the island
Plans to visit another beach....are shelved ......as the rains return yet again.
Plan B...always a good idea....is to head indoors for food 'n drink and wait out the deluge in a quaint bar/restaurant...
We indulge in a tasty shrimp / rice meal with fried plantain!! Meals are large enough to share one plate.
Finally, before dark....the skies clear a bit to see these remarkable marine iguanas and ... crabs galore...
And another day ends...
Kicker Rock Snorkel
We join a snorkel/dive tour for a full day to the famous Kicker Rock....we decide to snorkel, as several days earlier people saw rays, hammerheads all swimming just metres below them.
The 12 of us, and several staff, head out on a postcard perfect Galapagos day.
Kicker Rock (otherwise known as León Dormido - the Sleeping Lion).....beckons us........but first...a short stop at Playa Grande near the north end of Isla San Cristóbal.
Time to snorkel....and check out the scenery
Kicker Rock .......30 minutes in the distance
Lunch includes rice, chicken in salsa sauce, salad and fruit for dessert...
Wow! Kicker Rock is an eroded cone of an extinct volcano that stands 144 m tall in the middle of the ocean. There is no place to land except for the many birds that call this rock home. This is where we spent several hours snorkeling...
California Sea Lions swim with us through this channel...
White or Black Tipped Sharks swim below us... Unfortunately not the hammerhead sharks, today...
Green Sea Turtles say hello...
....and the skies stay clear with the frigates flying above...
....and the seas relatively calm...(not so much). As usual, Yvonne has a tough time with these rough seas... it's all about concentration on the horizon!!!
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On our last full day on San Cristóbal the sun is out in full force...in the heat and humidity (80+%) of this equatorial isla...we head out to several beaches to snorkel and check out the wild life.
The raging streams of the past few days have vanished, leaving only a dry watercourse.
We are not kidding...how fast the torrents have dried up.
The 'local' swimming hole is crystal clear today.
Kids swim off the steps, jump from the volcanic rocks that line the shoreline.
We snorkel among more sea lions and schools of colourful fish.
The paved park trails provide easy access through the volcanic debris to various beaches and viewpoints.
Our last full day on the beach of Playa Punta Carola filled with green sea turtles at every turn... and, of course, more fish...
Followed by a final snorkel at Playa Mann where, on this day, the action was more about the marine iguanas skirting along the beach to their lava rocks that provided a perfect camouflage for them...
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Leaving Galapagos.....can be hard to do........
While we spent 4 full days with additional arrival/departure days bookending our stay and we saw a whole lot, one could easily spend weeks bumping around the Galapagos...chasing birds or iguanas or 'buddying' up to sea lions in, under the water or even lazing on a park bench. Really, there isn't an 'ideal' length for a stay. Whatever your budget is....time and interest allows........ will determine the direction that you will take. A bit of research will jell the plans. And, like the tortoise here.... Happy travels!
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Epilogue
Galapagos Travel Tips
Flying in: We flew from Guayaquil to San Cristobal rt for just over $500 Can/person. Tickets were purchased 5 DAYS before online.
Rooms: We booked ahead..but after arriving on San Cristobal, realized there were plenty of rooms available. We paid $50US/ night. Prices range.
Eating Out: While prices are higher than on the mainland, there are places that serve decent food at cheap.
DIY Tour Options.......you can do the Galapagos fairly 'inexpensively' on your own.... if you have a flexible time schedule....you can easily island hop.
Get around by daily 'ferry' boat or fly.
Only several islands have a population/communities. Rest are off-limits, except with tours.
Live aboard boat tours run the range from expensive ....to really expensive...while all your room/food/tour plans etc are taken care of... you only go where the boat/tour goes...no DIY stuff here.
Plus, you are always stuck with the groups.
For those with an independent spirit and flexible time....making up a Galapagos trip is fairly easy....cost-effective....safe and fun. Plus...you get to stay locally....spend $$ locally...and interact locally.
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Today....islanders...government ...along with eco organizations....strive to get the balance right....are they succeeding.....time will tell.
Hasta Luego!
Shayne y Yvonne
Additional Random Photos
Adios!!
