Sizzilin' in Sicily...6 days on the road....Under the Volcano...and then some....

Sicily

…On the sixth day,

God accomplished His work

And, pleased with all the beauty

He had created,

He took the Earth in His hands,

And kissed it.

There, where He put His lips,

That’s Sicily.

― Renzino Barbera, Artist, Actor, Poet

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Prologue

Really...this quote says it best about Sicily's history......

"Sicily is a blessed land. First, because of its geographic position in the Mediterranean. Second, for its history and all the different peoples who have settled there: Arabs, Greeks, Normans, the Swedes. That has made us different from others. We exaggerate, we overdo. We love Greek tragedy. We cry, we fight, sometimes for nothing." ―Marcello Giordani, Singer

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6 Days from Catania to Palermo

Flying into Catania, Sicily from Malta, we have some rough plans. It mainly centers on getting to Palermo in 6 days to catch the weekly ferry to Sardinia.

Limited to what we can see on the largest island in the Mediterranean, we can only nibble at a small portion of Sicily's beauty and delights.

Catania

We spend one night in Catania, at a grand set of apartments, run by Santo. The BellAqua BnB is located in the historico district.

 After an evening of roaming the streets and the main square...

 eating  and drinking  a variety of Sicilian specialities, including horse...Neighhhh!,  you say?

It's true...tis a horse of course... Happy Birthday to me... indeed a memorable meal!

 We pack up and head out the next morning to catch a bus north.

But, not before checking out the daily market. 

A feast for the eyes, nose and ears await...

 Crowds push through the market. 

It is a rainbow of sounds, sights and smells...especially at the fish market...  Some massive fish (not sure what they were), and then the smaller sardines, squid and cuttlefish floating in their own ink...

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Taormina

Under Mt. Etna's shadow, high on the mountain side, overlooking the blue Ionian Sea sits Taormina. 

Access is via a steep, hairpin cornered highway or cable car from the seaside; Taormina is a shining jewel.

The town is a magnet for visitors from all over. 

Cruise ship passengers pulsate through the narrow walkways like waves onto a shoreline. Groups on tours, weddings, business meetings or families on holidays all take enjoyment wandering the passageways.

We stay in the BnB Le 4 Fontane at the uphill end of Corso Umberto #231 where our host Angelo delivers a typical 'sweet' Sicilian breakfast (caffe and creme filled croissant) each morning while looking at this view...

We climb quiet side alleys, avoid the crowds, eat over priced sweets and coffee with views that are easily worth more Euro$$$ than we really need to spend. Oh well, when in Europe....

Although still early season in the tourist onslaught, the town is surprisingly busy.

Even the beach below is starting to crowd up. Pebbly beach space is hard to find and the alternative of paying Euro15/each for a beach lounger and umbrella is a bit pricey.

After a brief stint on the beach we opt for some drinks and a meal...

We take in an Opera (Italian-style)...on the terrace, at intermission, drinking champagne, mingling, under a stewin' Mt Etna...it was bellimissio!

As they say..."Suspended between sea and sky"....aptly describes the location of the Greek theatre built in 3rd century BC. The location above Taormina, with view of Mt Etna and a sweeping vista of the Ionian Sea provides a perfect setting for current productions.

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Capo d'Orlando

We hop a bus from Taormina north to Messina, then grab a comfortable train west along Sicily's north coast to Capo d'Orlando. 

A quiet beach town with kms long expanse of sand, where fisherman still look for their catch of the day...Capo is a perfect overnight stop.

Here the sun sets into the Tyrrhenian Sea and we share a plate of calamari with a cold beer.

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Cefalù

Old town Chefalù bunches up in a scramble of structures tight against high fortress cliffs at the east end of the long beach front.

Instead of massive boulders that have split away from the towering rock face and fallen in a heap at its base, the buildings in Cefalù's old town sit right on water's edge. 

Slowly, irresistibly, it seems they are being pushed into the shallow, clear waters by the invisible granite forces looming over them.

Dominating the skyline are the twin spires of the cathedral...from the church steps and plaza, the town's streets and alleyways radiate outwards...like spokes on a bicycle wheel.

This is a vacation destination for everyone. With the Aeolian Islands faintly visible offshore through the morning sea mist and Sicilian sunlight, the crumbly centro is the working-class sibling to its higher-class family member of Taormina.

Everything is decidely less expensive than high up in the rarefied air that is Taormina...even the haircuts...

Cefalù is a place to spend in the warming months of spring....with a generous promenade (or lungomare) and a great beach for everyone...

With lots of eateries, rooms and new friends, ...one could easily spend several weeks enjoying all the good life this Sicilian town has to offer.

While still in reach of Mt. Etna, great road access along the coast and into the mountainous interior make exploring the region fairly easy by car, bus or train.

But, you know, as the song goes..."Six days on the road...... I said ...........I'm a gonna make it home tonight"...lyrics by Dave Dudley

Caio...from Sicily

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Our stay in Sicily was too short. Like an appetizer, we only chanced to nibble at some of what Sicily offers. 

We are off to Palermo to catch the overnight ferry to Sardinia.

The view from the Palermo Hop on/Hop off bus....before hopping on our ferry.

 Way easier to see some quick sights than lugging ourselves and packs around the hot, crowded streets.

Good night from the ferry deck as we depart Sicily in the setting sun........See you in Sardinia....

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And we leave you with a......Sicilian Proverb

Sali mitticcinne na visazza, conzola quantu vua..ma sempre è cucuzza

“You may garnish it with as much salt and pepper as you want, but pumpkin still has little flavour”

Arrivederci!

Shayne y Yvonne

Additional Random  Photos 

Going....going....Gone...to Gozo...the land of fables...Giants and days lost elsewhere....

                                                          GOZO

......."Gozo remained an utterly private place, an island in petto - within the breast - and lucky the man who could find the key, turn the lock, and vanish inside.”.......― Nicholas Monserrat




                                 


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                                                   Prologue

..........Seems everyone that's anyone in history and folklore has managed to end up on Gozo for some period of time....

....Homer's Odyssey weaves a tale of the hero Odysseus and the nymph Calypso. For seven years, Odysseus was caught in Calypso's spell and lived in her cave (which according to legends was on Gozo). Only when the gods stepped in, did Odysseus return to family life....(must have been a shock to go home)....

...Then there is Ggantija, the ancient site of giant-sized limestone slabs and rocks....legend has it that a female giant named Sunsuna contructed everything in one night, while nursing a baby. Seems her great strength came from eating beans. Who knew?...anyway..these temples date back to 3600 BC, predating even the pyramids and that other megalithic marvel - Stonehenge

Finally.....the biblical tale of St Paul, an apostle of Jesus Christ.....seems he shipwrecked himself on these shores..(actually, that tale places him closer to Malta...but, why quibble over a few kms)....and, there's even an island and bay named after him. (Sounds like an episode of Gilligan's Island - just kidding)

.................These are just a few of the many myths and legends that weave a magic folklore spell for those who manage to escape from the madness of the island of Malta.......google Malta/Gozo myths, legends and folklore for more....

                                                       Gozo

Gozo is a quiet, rural island opposite of frentic Malta. Here one can walk tranquil country lanes....

...waste a day on cliffs high with view points....

...pass by wheat fields and grazing livestock....

...worship in a multitude of venues...

...or reside in old world villages....

While only a 25 minute ferry ride from Malta, Gozo is world's away from the high end fashion, mad traffic and crowds that dominate Malta. People come for the quiet, the space and a chance to slow down and breathe.

Here and there throughout the numerous villages scattered across the pastoral landscape, the old men still sit in town squares beneath the shadows of church spires and fountain statues. They greet friends or talk politics, people shop,  doors are left unlocked, windows open, and fishers still cast nets. All the while buses somehow manage to squeeze through narrow island roads.

We spend several days in the quiet, serene village of Gharb (pronounced Arb). Our digs are a 250 year old converted farmhouse. The Raymar Apartment is bright, cheerful and a perfect spot to base our time on the Island of Joy (the meaning of Gozo).

It seems every hilltop has another cathedral, while the center of the island is dominated by the fortress-like Citadel. It looms over the town of Victoria.

The Salt Pan Region

One family has the panning rights to the salt flats near the seaside town of Marsalforn. For over 5 generations, they've harvested the salt from the sea water gathered in the limestone pans. 

While ocurring naturally from the sea and weather action on some parts of the coast, here the limestone has been carved, ditches added to irrigate and drain. Modern touches include electric pumps to fill the limestone pans and hoses to spray water. 

Much like filling an ice cube tray, although, instead of freezing, the salt water is left to slowly evaporate under the hot Gozian sun.

This gentleman is the patriarch of the family...now, his knowledge is passed on to his daughter and son-in-law who continue the traditions of old...with modifications...

When conditions are right, salt can be harvested weekly... it is sold locally or bought as a souvenir by tourists.

During the winter months, pans are repaired by replacing rocks that have shifted...once the sun's ray's intensify, the new season of salt harvest begins.

@

Along the coastline, caves are carved out of the limestone. Good places for salt pan workers to escape the sun and heat.

Family Time

The family reunion tour continues. Most go on to Gozo.

Here the group gathers in a 2 century plus old house. And, a chance to have a meal together.

We join them on a boat cruise of Gozo and Comino Island. Here we swim in the azure-clear waters of the Blue Lagoon. Although early June, the waters are still chilly...brrr!  20 C!

 But, the tiny bay is already crowded with boat traffic and tour groups.

Crystal clear...but quiet on the fish life.

Family/brother/sister/in laws....Comino Island...

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Travel Tips to Malta/ Gozo

Getting there....fly into various arrival airports in Europe..then book onward flight to Malta

Staying on Malta.....lots of options from high end apartments to villas in quieter coastal villages

Getting around...Car rental or or not (weigh the pros n cons)..bus and taxi service decent

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Getting to Gozo...easy 25 minute ferry ride across from Malta 

Getting around...RENT a car..if you are there for more than a day...we rented from Michael's Garage..easy..little hassle and only Euro20/day..(they left the car at the ferry car park...unlocked with key under the mat...texted us and said we would meet later to sign papers..love the island way!)

Staying on Gozo....lots of places from high end villas to quiet village apartments..

PS...there really isn't any 'night' life on Gozo

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Next time.....slicing through Sicily....

Ciao!

Shayne e Yvonne

Additional Random Photos