The Tale of 3 Cities Plus 1
Stuttgart, Nürnberg, Berlin + London
My love letter to Germany...memories by Yvonne Konar (and brother Dirk)
Why, may you ask, are we on this short 2 week journey around Germany? In short, it is a family reunion and a time for discovery of Yvonne's roots plus one side trip to Nürnberg.
In 1953/54 Yvonne's parents (27 & 25 at the time) emigrated to Canada from Berlin, Germany after WWII to start a new life in the great land of opportunity and hope. They landed in BC where distant relatives sponsored them until they could support themselves.
Because November 9, 2019 was the 30th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall, we decided to go to Berlin to celebrate this occasion, but, why not stop in to see other relatives too... so,
We'd never been to this beautiful city so we took this opportunity to visit a first cousin after a 10 year hiatus.
One of Stuttgart's many parks
Of course we had to sample some beer at one of the quaint outdoor patios
A typical residential street, more ponds, and, an elevator to take you to the Metro.
Even though it is not widely celebrated in Europe, this neighbourhood loves Halloween. They used it as an opportunity to set up a glüwein (hot red wine) bar on the street corner for adults to grab as they were walking by with their children. We were welcomed with curiosity on how we celebrate at home. Unfortunately we had to tell them that open alcohol is not allowed on our streets...
En Route to the most picturesque medieval city of Nürnberg... on our ICE train which reached speeds up to 227 km. Comfortable and clean. We wondered what the double decker train was like.
Beautiful countryside filled with solar panels and windmills
The Pegnitz River running through Nürnberg
Every turn had another stunning view
Medieval Guild Signs still evident throughout the city
St. Lorenz Church from the 14th C. Badly damaged during WWII but restored like everything else in Germany. It is considered "one of the most prominent churches of the Evangelical Lutheran Churches in Bavaria."
Some of the interior...
The quaint open-air market in the old town (Altstadt)
Amazing architecture
When I was 16, almost 50 years ago, I went on a summer exchange to this area of Germany where I was partnered with another girl my age... Her family welcomed me in for the summer as a total stranger, and the following summer she came to visit us in the Okanagan. We have been friends ever since... a relationship that has brought us through the ups and downs in life, but a friendship that has stood up to time... A wonderful weekend reunion after a 10 year absence.
But then, it was time to leave once again... Auf wiedersehen!!!
Back on the train for 4 hours to Berlin
BERLIN NOVEMBER 2019.
A TIME IN WHICH MY BROTHER AND I (AND SHAYNE) REVISITED THE BIRTHPLACE OF OUR MOTHER AND THE PLACE WHERE OUR PARENTS MET OH SO MANY YEARS AGO. A CITY WE LIVED IN VERY BRIEFLY WHEN WE WERE 3 AND 5 YEARS OF AGE (1959/60) AND A PLACE WE HAVEN'T BEEN TO TOGETHER SINCE THEN....
"30th Anniversary of the Peaceful Revolution
- Fall of the Berlin Wall"
This account was mostly written by my brother Dirk regarding our week together in Berlin. He did such a good job, I thought I would just cut and paste.... I've added photos .... It's quite a long read, but for you history buffs, I'm sure you will find it rather interesting... Feel free to comment or ask questions...
"This November is such an important time in our history 30 years ago. Life changed for so many people, so many countries. Good changes but I‘m learning many people paid a huge price for their freedom. My sister Yvonne and her husband Shayne have flown in for the anniversary. It’s a time to learn, to experience, to listen to the pros and cons and most important , to connect with family, with our parents history.
Our mom was a Berliner. Born and raised . When Kennedy said : "Ich bin ein Berliner" the translation was "I am a jelly donut" because a 'Berliner' is in fact a donut made in Berlin. He should have actually said, Ich bin Berliner (I am a citizen of Berlin). But they all knew he meant I am in solidarity with every Berlin person living in Berlin and we are here to protect your freedom. Jf Kennedy is revered here big time.
The 2019 anniversary is comprised of 7 locations each with a historical perspective and importance in the story of the fall of the Wall and the separated Germany. Each site with open-air exhibitions. We want to experience all of them.
1) We start with the Stasi Museum (The former headquarters of the secret police). The now museum is housed in one of the many buildings which operated as an agency to spy on its citizens. Exhibitions are numerous in the courtyard.
Set up to stem the exodus after the war of freedom seekers to the western section from those of the east. Hundreds of thousands of citizens participated in spying on neighbours & famiiies for the state.
The museum houses cameras, listening devices, letters reports, computers, interviews . This was Big Brother watching everyone. I have to laugh: it’s like reality today. Everyone can be traced with our electronic devices and banking information within a very short time. Big Brother : it is the reality.
2) The following day we head to Alexanderplatz. The large TV tower is here (Fernsehturm).
On November 4 1989, 100,000 demonstrated against the East Government after a demonstration in Leipzig. We are here on November 4, 2019.
Video footage is projected onto the buildings from that time. Freedom, freedom.
You see the anguish in the eyes, the hate, the desperation. Hard not to tear up ...it’s what everyone wants. The crowds around us are spellbound with the visual fest, old young, every nationality is here. An old German man is holding court while listeners hear his moving story. He is in his glory tonight... he is the centre of attention. Speeches from the Mayor so articulate, so pointed at the condemnation of the government at that time. Music thereafter. We move on. Dinner and lots of drinking in an old converted streetcar.
3) The East Side Gallery (the world's longest gallery) was the brainchild of an Iranian that had escaped from his country and who had ultimately settled in Berlin. An artist who convinced other artists to create works of art on the former wall. One of the first being the Trabant (famous East German Car) breaking through the wall.
The 1.3 km section is haunting at night. The place is packed. We see dignities everywhere from many different countries.
Art work painted on the former Wall...now an art gallery of political statements
Images projected on the Wall
4) At Checkpoint Charlie we see school children from England, Holland, France all engaged in the Images. They seem interested in learning the history or perhaps it’s a free day for them.
Shayne and I crossed here at Checkpoint Charlie in 1985 when we were returning from East Germany after a 10 day visit with our aunt and son. A scary time... being able to speak German seemed to make it a somewhat easier crossing.
It was a different place then. The Checkpoint above, is in the centre of the road near the back. In front is the death strip. Today, tourists take photos and eat McDonalds ...
5) The Kurfürstendamm boulevard (KuDamm), is a major artery in the city. As soon as the Wall came down the East Germans wanted to come here. On the 10th of November, 1989, the day after the Wall fall, Berliners celebrated in this area. West Berliners welcomed the thousands into their homes and arms. While subdued, while we are here, it’s an important part of the history. Today it is a busy shopping district.
(The Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächtnis-Kirche on the KuDamm is an iconic symbol in this area and for the city. The new church with its stunning blue glass "is a memorial for peace and reconciliation, and commemorates Berliners’ determination to rebuild after the war".)
6) The Gethsemane Kirche was a focal point for the Peaceful Revolution in Berlin in 1989. It was here that the church was destroyed by the East German government because it was on the border and in the way of the Wall. So many houses and buildings had to be boarded up. Tunnel markers now show where people tried to escape to the west. One is called Fluchttunnel 57(Escape Tunnel 57) because 57 people escaped using it until it was eventually shut down.
The black and white photo shows where the tunnel was dug under the death strip. The top left photo shows how the tunnel either went to or came from one of the apartment buildings that was right beside the death strip. It is all so hard to comprehend. Many that lost their lives are profiled on the sign boards. I can’t imagine.
And this is what it looks like today compared to then...
The day has arrived, November 9, 2019... the reason we have come to Germany this time. It's the 30th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall. We decide to go to the Brandenburg Gate venue where our cousins were 30 years ago on this day!
The left picture shows the wall in front of the sign...and today on the right...
7) The Brandenburg Gate. So famous now. We are with our cousins Moni, Bernd & Anne-Grit after a beautiful dinner at Potsdamer Platz.
We head to the Gate at 19:00 because it is now time for the celebration to begin... This proves to be a bit more difficult than anticipated... The entrance is blocked. They can’t accommodate any more people. It seems we have come too late! They tell us we need to go through the Tiergarten (Park) and walk around. The garden is pitch black. We are thousands trying to get to the celebrations. 1/2 Kilometer from the Gate we finally get to the boulevard (Unter den Linden) only to be blocked from the actual festivities. The crowd is getting excited, disturbed and there is no information. Suddenly someone gets out their cellphone and plays the chanting from 30 years ago when the East Germans were trying to get into West Germany.
"Let us out, we want in." It is haunting. The chants start in the crowd. "Let us in!" The police sense conflict. The loudspeaker comes suddenly on and we are told that in 10 minutes the gates will open. Sure enough it happens. We need to walk a while but we are here at the iconic Brandenburg Gate with 10‘s of thousands here doing the same.
We can't believe we are actually here!
Love being with our younger cousin, Anne-Grit
Above our heads is the 100 m+ long art installation called "Visions in Motion" by Patrick Shearn, filled with thousands of messages of wishes, hopes and memories gathered from across the country. It's mesmerizing..
The speeches are over - it's music time, light show time, drink time, eating time, remembering time. The tears flow...
WE MADE IT!!!! 30 years after the event.
The fireworks light up the sky .......
WOW!!! What an absolutely incredible experience to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall on November 9, 1989/2019 with my brother, Dirk, my husband, Shayne and our Berliner cousins.
Thanks for your words, Dirk. Another wonderful memory we can share!
Ah, but our trip is not quite over yet. We still have to see another cousin in London, UK.
So, off we fly the next day after all the festivities ... it's so hard to say goodbye... but instead, we say, "Auf wiedersehen" or 'until we see each other again' which sounds much nicer than 'goodbye'!
Once we hook up with cousin Anna at Trafalgar Square we head straight to the Whitehall Cenotaph for Remembrance Day, November 11...a day we never forget to attend in Canada.
It's been 15 years since we've seen each other so there is lots to catch up on... She takes a day off from working on her PhD in Law to stroll through the streets and parks of London with a special visit to the palace... The Queen was in residence, indicated by the flag, but she failed to come say hello... what a pity...
Such a nice visit, Anna. Thanks for sharing your time with us!
Cheers until the next time we call...(and it will be very soon.....)
Yvonne & Shayne
Additional Random Photos
Part of Nürnberg Castle
A pub in an old brewery in Nürnberg
Heritage photos on the walls of the Metro in Berlin
Alexanderplatz in Berlin
The World Clock in Alexanderplatz
Standing between remnants of the Wall
Street markers found in Berlin showing where the Wall used to be. They can be found on sidewalks, roads, parks, plazas...
East Side Gallery art
The Quadriga on top of the Brandenburg Gate
Interior of the Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächtnis Kirche
Where our mom worked before coming to Canada... an officers' mess used by the US army
Potsdamer Platz roof during the day
Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe
Stairs from the Metro
Berlin Hauptbahnhof or Main Train Station
Magdalenen Kirche
Street cars in Berlin
Typical traditional meal - sausage, mustard and potato salad
The Berlin Cathedral
Trafalgar Square, UK
Remembrance Day
Auf Wiedersehen!!!
