Prologue
.......Flames to dust
Lovers to friends
Why do all good things
come to an end?
come to an end?
Flames to dust......
...Lyrics by Nelly Furtado
NB: Remember to double click on the photos for a clearer view...
NB: Remember to double click on the photos for a clearer view...
.....................
Baños de Agua Santa, Ecuador
(Under a Volcano)
1800 m
(Under a Volcano)
1800 m
(Baños....just above 'Ecuador' on map)
We've barely started our 1000m climb up to the Antennas, to the mirador (lookout), Mirador Ojos del Volcán Tungurahua, when our taxi driver/guide Vicente pulls the car over and points to a plant growing on the side of the road. A tomato tree...used mainly for juice. As we continue to climb he pulls over several more times to let us sample peaches and blackberries...
...and on we climb...the 45 degree road switches back and forth and on we climb.....
crops grow everywhere on the 60+ degree hillside...even corn and other fruits are planted at the Lookout, an elevation of 2800 m. Animals and humans on these slopes would best need one leg shorter than the other to move around up here.
We've barely started our 1000m climb up to the Antennas, to the mirador (lookout), Mirador Ojos del Volcán Tungurahua, when our taxi driver/guide Vicente pulls the car over and points to a plant growing on the side of the road. A tomato tree...used mainly for juice. As we continue to climb he pulls over several more times to let us sample peaches and blackberries...
crops grow everywhere on the 60+ degree hillside...even corn and other fruits are planted at the Lookout, an elevation of 2800 m. Animals and humans on these slopes would best need one leg shorter than the other to move around up here.
We look down..the town of Baños, high in the Andes, lies on a rocky, volcanic plateau set in the shadow of the towering Tangurahua Volcano whose summit is over 5000 m.
We had hoped to see the snow covered summit from our vantage point above Baños and across from the volcano. Today, though, it is hiding behind a cloud wrapped cover.
Baños stretches out below us...to the east a rugged slash fractures the earth as the Rio Pastaza winds its way through deep gorges and narrow valleys and onwards to the Amazon.
Baños could be the Switzerland of Ecuador....surrounded by the towering Andes, rivers and waterfalls...it is becoming the adventure capital in Ecuador.
Want to see waterfalls...ride a zipline.......soak in thermal baths......go river rafting or even bungee jump from the town bridge (where all manner of vehicles jostle for space alongside the thrill seekers)....it all can be done here.
Our $8 one hour tour to the top and back to town with Vicente ends at the town's bridge, just as a bungee jumper is launching herself off.
This picturesque town offers hiking, bike tours....one can rent quads and even go-karts are 'street legal' here... allowing a DIY (do-it-yourself) tour through city streets and on surrounding highways...
Buses run everywhere from Centro Baños. We take one out to El Diablo waterfalls... where chaos reigns with the buses vying for their spot crossing the river.
It's a big hike down to the falls...we get wet...
After, we tried a local street snack of fried plantain doused with grated cheese served in the plantain peel...
...then bussed back to Baños
Another day, we hit the volcanic warmed waters of the rustic El Salado thermal pools...besides a swim suit ...we needed to wear a swim cap...never did figure that out..
Baños has numerous tour operators......hotel/hostel options ...
and eateries....
Of course, we want to try the local specialties...'cuy' (pronounced ku-ee) or guinea pig is on the grill...unfortunately they are closed by the time we return to sample it...we will need to try it another time...
....................................
Off to Ingapirca
elevation 3200m
.....heading further south along the Andes.....
(Just below 'Ecuador' on map)
Overlooking the valley below, the ruins of Ingapirca are located on the windswept terraced hills with sweeping views.
While much of the grandeur is lost today to most visitors; Ingapirca was a pivotal location for the Inca empire. The Spanish destroyed many of the buildings, using rocks etc. for their own construction.....
Ingapirca's centerpiece is the Temple of the Sun ...although a shell of its former glory...the oval shaped temple follows the design by the Cañarians who built an observatory around a massive stone for foundation.
The ruins are guides only for visitors....easily walkable...with points of interest. The ancient village had sites for food storage....ceremony.....and private quarters replicated on site.
Over the years as it sat empty, locals would cart stones away for their own building needs; much like the Spanish did centuries earlier.
Government appeals to 'return the stones'....have seen locals, including priests return materials they had used for construction.
Posada Ingapirca
We treat ourselves to a nice overnight stop at this Posada on our way south to Cuenca from Baños.
The climb from the bus station in Ingapirca town had us huffing and puffing at the 3200m+ elevation.
The old hacienda sits above the ruins and is full of old world elegance....
We enjoy the ambience, charm ....and good food 'n drink here provided by friendly locals...
With cool nights and no central heating....our 'turn down' service at bedtime includes a hot water bottle for the beds. Toasty warm was the sleep.
Living this way, I stress less
I want to pull away when the dream dies
The pain sets in, and I don't cry
I only feel gravity, and I wonder why....
Travel Tips in the Andes
Quito to Baños....views are everywhere. Buses run all the time and cost about $1 US per hour of travel. While distances aren't that great, the windy Andean roads make car/bus driving slow.
Baños...has a fair sized foreign population living/wintering there. Baños is also a jumping off point for tours to the Amazon.
Ingapirca....a nice stop over after the slow roads from Baños via Alausi...opportunities to walk the Inca Trail here.
Hasta Luego!
Shayne y Yvonne
Buses run everywhere from Centro Baños. We take one out to El Diablo waterfalls... where chaos reigns with the buses vying for their spot crossing the river.
It's a big hike down to the falls...we get wet...
Mist sprays everyone from the viewing platform.
...then bussed back to Baños
Another day, we hit the volcanic warmed waters of the rustic El Salado thermal pools...besides a swim suit ...we needed to wear a swim cap...never did figure that out..
Baños has numerous tour operators......hotel/hostel options ...
This was our hotel, Flor de Oriente for $30 US
and eateries....
Of course, we want to try the local specialties...'cuy' (pronounced ku-ee) or guinea pig is on the grill...unfortunately they are closed by the time we return to sample it...we will need to try it another time...
We do manage to try their 'melcocha' which is a Taffy made from dehydrated sugarcane, molasses and spices. Recipes handed down for generations are hooked on a peg where they are steadily pulled and wrapped to release trapped air bubbles...the result... delicious!!!
And, we find good music and a great bar... Pipas, run by the lovely Nina...
....................................
Off to Ingapirca
elevation 3200m
.....heading further south along the Andes.....
(Just below 'Ecuador' on map)
Overlooking the valley below, the ruins of Ingapirca are located on the windswept terraced hills with sweeping views.
While much of the grandeur is lost today to most visitors; Ingapirca was a pivotal location for the Inca empire. The Spanish destroyed many of the buildings, using rocks etc. for their own construction.....
Ingapirca's centerpiece is the Temple of the Sun ...although a shell of its former glory...the oval shaped temple follows the design by the Cañarians who built an observatory around a massive stone for foundation.
The ruins are guides only for visitors....easily walkable...with points of interest. The ancient village had sites for food storage....ceremony.....and private quarters replicated on site.
Over the years as it sat empty, locals would cart stones away for their own building needs; much like the Spanish did centuries earlier.
Government appeals to 'return the stones'....have seen locals, including priests return materials they had used for construction.
Posada Ingapirca
We treat ourselves to a nice overnight stop at this Posada on our way south to Cuenca from Baños.
The climb from the bus station in Ingapirca town had us huffing and puffing at the 3200m+ elevation.
The old hacienda sits above the ruins and is full of old world elegance....
We enjoy the ambience, charm ....and good food 'n drink here provided by friendly locals...
Works of art are abundant...
............................
Epilogue
....Traveling, I only stop at exits
Wondering if I'll stay
Young and restlessLiving this way, I stress less
I want to pull away when the dream dies
The pain sets in, and I don't cry
I only feel gravity, and I wonder why....
- lyrics by Nelly Furtado
................
Travel Tips in the Andes
Quito to Baños....views are everywhere. Buses run all the time and cost about $1 US per hour of travel. While distances aren't that great, the windy Andean roads make car/bus driving slow.
Baños...has a fair sized foreign population living/wintering there. Baños is also a jumping off point for tours to the Amazon.
Ingapirca....a nice stop over after the slow roads from Baños via Alausi...opportunities to walk the Inca Trail here.
Hasta Luego!
Shayne y Yvonne
Additional Random Photos
Shoes for sale...
Spectacular scenery at ever turn
