Backpacks and Flipflops: Malta....a jewel in just about everyone's eye....marvellous...mysterious....in the Mediterranean...

...They paved paradise

And put in a parking lot

...lyrics by Joni Mitchell

(Or, so it seems...)

...................................................

Malta

Malta? Where is it? ..........Check the map below.

Malta sits squarely below Italy/Scily and
........north of the African coastline.

Prologue

This little dot of an archepelego (Malta, Gozo and Comino) has been visited by anyone since 3000+BC that could float a boat.

The gods of myths and legends placed these tiny bits of limestone rock smack dab about where anyone sailing the narrows between Sicily and Tunsia/Libya would almost surely come across them.

Malta's history goes back to the Neolithic era, further, one would say, if the whispers of Atlantis are true....and, since the dawn of exploration, Malta has welcomed, fought against, repelled or endured one wave after another....from the Phoenicians...to Napolean to the Knights of St John...the sun kissed islands of Malta, Gozo and Comino have seen their share of hardship.

The islands provided sanctuary for sailors, defenses for protectors and a gathering base for defenders.

Rugged, jagged limestone landscape that was a jewel for explorers and conquerors. If you stuck a protractor on Comino Island (see map below) and traced a circle that included Northern Africa, the Middle East and Southern Europe you would probably have highlighted all the peoples, countries and civilizations that have landed, ruled or fought over these remnants of the once ancient land bridge that stretched from Sicily to Africa. ..........................................................................................................

...........................

Come along as.... we leave Vancouver...

Fly over the French Alps...

And land in Malta...

Valletta (centro historico) ...sits across the bay from our room with a great view of the old fortess town

View from our room in Sliema looking towards Manoel Island and its fortress

Malta/Valletta town has a long history as a strategic chokehold for this part of the Mediterranean. If you controlled Malta, you ruled the waters around it.

The Triton Fountain on the periphery of the City Gate to Valletta

Today, Malta is a vibrant, busy island. Much of it is covered in the sand coloured limestone blocks used in building materials. Fortress-like, walled off views greet the eye at every turn.

This island of nearly 500,000 is full. Construction is frantic, traffic is hectic and congestion is the norm. Locals lament about the old days... (not the 25 years ago 'old days'....but the 5 years ago old days)...Very little greenery or wild space exists. What passes for rural seems to be patches of sparse, ground cover.

People arrive by plane, by the cruise ship boat load and stay several hours or several days. A 3 hr flight from most parts of Europe make getting away to the sun, good food, and interesting sights an easy decision.

In the summer months, Malta's population nearly triples...(and, Malta feels crowded in May!)

However..despite the crowds and traffic it is very clean. Garbage is collected, recycling is evident and trash is non-existent along road sides and walkways.

Many come to reconnect with family members......

....(and, that was a good enough reason for us to kick off a trip to this part of the world, as our sister-in-law has returned with family and friends in tow to visit relatives and spend time on Malta/Gozo )......

Malta's location has made it a battle ground for numerous conquerors and defenders...fought over politics, over dominance and sometimes driven by religious differences....Napolean Bonaparte conquered it....the Knights of St John defended it, often sending severed heads of their enemies back at them as cannon balls. From temples to churches to mosques to cathedrals...much blood was spilled, along with prayers to their gods

The 16th C Saluting Battery found at the Barrakka Gardens overlooking The Grand Harbour is still fired twice daily...

The War Room

Underground and tunneled into the limestone were the headquarters for the Allies planning and response during WW2.

So strategic was Malta, that enemy forces dropped more bombs on the island than they did on London.

Today, though, the invasion is tourists ..fueled in part by the EU infusion of cash for road and infrastructure improvements, airport expansion and a growing financial, banking and tech center.

Getting around Malta is fairly painless, as there is an excellent bus system and decent taxi service. While the island is approximately 27 km by 14km, and distances to sites not a long way, the traffic and clogged roads make for a slow go for moving around the island.

Renting a car is possible, but the stress of dealing with busy roads, non-existent parking, narrow streets, right hand drive, left side drive etc, make the idea questionable.

The old world alley ways and quiet squares are a delight to stroll through...these are in the medieval town of Mdina which was founded in the 8th C by the Phoenicians. You can even go for a horse and carriage ride...

Election day and the local Labour Party has elected a number of candidates to the EU parliament. Everyone seems happy about the results, even the local constabulary....all good reasons to have a Cisk (beer) in their social club.

Megaliths and Monuments

The Tarxien Temples south of Valletta are the largest stone sculptures on Malta dating to 1350 BC.

Legend has it that the portals and doorways are connections through to other megalithic sites found in Evora, Portugal and Stonehege...sort of ancient Stargates..

( that would be nice, if were true, though)

St John's Co-Cathedral

Dedicated to St John the Baptist and built from 1572-1577 this impressive church has 9 chapels, ornate carvings and crypts. It currently houses the famous painting "The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist" from 1608 by Caravaggio.

But, after 6 days on Malta, it's time to move to a more quieter environment...

...........................

Prologue

...Only those who risk going too far can

possibly find out how far one can go.....

...TS Elliot

................................

Next time.....Going Gonzo on Gozo