......."Gozo remained an utterly private place, an island in petto - within the breast - and lucky the man who could find the key, turn the lock, and vanish inside.”.......―
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Prologue
..........Seems everyone that's anyone in history and folklore has managed to end up on Gozo for some period of time....
....Homer's Odyssey weaves a tale of the hero Odysseus and the nymph Calypso. For seven years, Odysseus was caught in Calypso's spell and lived in her cave (which according to legends was on Gozo). Only when the gods stepped in, did Odysseus return to family life....(must have been a shock to go home)....
...Then there is Ggantija, the ancient site of giant-sized limestone slabs and rocks....legend has it that a female giant named Sunsuna contructed everything in one night, while nursing a baby. Seems her great strength came from eating beans. Who knew?...anyway..these temples date back to 3600 BC, predating even the pyramids and that other megalithic marvel - Stonehenge
Finally.....the biblical tale of St Paul, an apostle of Jesus Christ.....seems he shipwrecked himself on these shores..(actually, that tale places him closer to Malta...but, why quibble over a few kms)....and, there's even an island and bay named after him. (Sounds like an episode of Gilligan's Island - just kidding)
.................These are just a few of the many myths and legends that weave a magic folklore spell for those who manage to escape from the madness of the island of Malta.......google Malta/Gozo myths, legends and folklore for more....
Gozo
Gozo is a quiet, rural island opposite of frentic Malta. Here one can walk tranquil country lanes....
...pass by wheat fields and grazing livestock....
...worship in a multitude of venues...
...or reside in old world villages....
While only a 25 minute ferry ride from Malta, Gozo is world's away from the high end fashion, mad traffic and crowds that dominate Malta. People come for the quiet, the space and a chance to slow down and breathe.
Here and there throughout the numerous villages scattered across the pastoral landscape, the old men still sit in town squares beneath the shadows of church spires and fountain statues. They greet friends or talk politics, people shop, doors are left unlocked, windows open, and fishers still cast nets. All the while buses somehow manage to squeeze through narrow island roads.
We spend several days in the quiet, serene village of Gharb (pronounced Arb). Our digs are a 250 year old converted farmhouse. The Raymar Apartment is bright, cheerful and a perfect spot to base our time on the Island of Joy (the meaning of Gozo).
It seems every hilltop has another cathedral, while the center of the island is dominated by the fortress-like Citadel. It looms over the town of Victoria.
The Salt Pan Region
One family has the panning rights to the salt flats near the seaside town of Marsalforn. For over 5 generations, they've harvested the salt from the sea water gathered in the limestone pans.
While ocurring naturally from the sea and weather action on some parts of the coast, here the limestone has been carved, ditches added to irrigate and drain. Modern touches include electric pumps to fill the limestone pans and hoses to spray water.
Much like filling an ice cube tray, although, instead of freezing, the salt water is left to slowly evaporate under the hot Gozian sun.
This gentleman is the patriarch of the family...now, his knowledge is passed on to his daughter and son-in-law who continue the traditions of old...with modifications...
When conditions are right, salt can be harvested weekly... it is sold locally or bought as a souvenir by tourists.
During the winter months, pans are repaired by replacing rocks that have shifted...once the sun's ray's intensify, the new season of salt harvest begins.
@
Along the coastline, caves are carved out of the limestone. Good places for salt pan workers to escape the sun and heat.
Family Time
The family reunion tour continues. Most go on to Gozo.
Here the group gathers in a 2 century plus old house. And, a chance to have a meal together.
We join them on a boat cruise of Gozo and Comino Island. Here we swim in the azure-clear waters of the Blue Lagoon. Although early June, the waters are still chilly...brrr! 20 C!
But, the tiny bay is already crowded with boat traffic and tour groups.
Crystal clear...but quiet on the fish life.
Family/brother/sister/in laws....Comino Island...
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Travel Tips to Malta/ Gozo
Getting there....fly into various arrival airports in Europe..then book onward flight to Malta
Staying on Malta.....lots of options from high end apartments to villas in quieter coastal villages
Getting around...Car rental or or not (weigh the pros n cons)..bus and taxi service decent
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Getting to Gozo...easy 25 minute ferry ride across from Malta
Getting around...RENT a car..if you are there for more than a day...we rented from Michael's Garage..easy..little hassle and only Euro20/day..(they left the car at the ferry car park...unlocked with key under the mat...texted us and said we would meet later to sign papers..love the island way!)
Staying on Gozo....lots of places from high end villas to quiet village apartments..
PS...there really isn't any 'night' life on Gozo
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Next time.....slicing through Sicily....
Ciao!
Shayne e Yvonne
Additional Random Photos
