We left the quiet beaches at Dhermi and headed for the inland city of Berat. Rather than walk the 1.5 km uphill road back to the highway and bus stop, we paid a fellow at a beach kiosk to drive us. Much better than walking in 30 C plus high humidity. Well worth the $5!!
We flagged down the first bus heading north and up and over the mountains that hugged this coastal stretch. The ascent to the rugged summit took only 30 minutes to climb 1100 metres, numerous switchbacks, hairpin turns and views that beat anything we've seen or driven on yet. Simply stunning, such that only pictures can tell the true story. The zigzag lines are the roads we traveled on!
Can you spot the bus on the top road? That's where we headed.
And stunning vistas.
So high up!
The bus we traveled in.
If you are a road biker in serious need of a challenge, then the stretch of road between Dhermi and Vlore, as well as, Sarande to Dhermi, would more than foot the bill. Cheaper than Italy, with quieter roads (esp in the spring), fantastic scenery, small, clean mountain villages and decently paved highways, would make it a bike trip to remember!
In Vlore we changed buses and headed to Berat, a UNESCO designated town. Ended up on our final bus with Formula One wanna be driver...cruising along at nearly 130 kms through village/town roads, avoiding potholes, oncoming traffic and work vehicles, we achieved warp speed with very little problem.
As has been the case, we arrived safe n sound to the wonderfully, ornate and well-kept historic town of Berat. This town began in the 13th Century built beneath the castle walls. It has gone through some changes with the varying rulers and one serious earthquake, but for the most part, it remains as it was in its early years.
We thoroughly enjoyed wandering the many intricate pathways meandering through the Muslim and Orthodox sections of town. Have a look at some of these sights:
The old town of Berat has numerous rooms to rent in quiet, shade-covered homes. Just need to wander the many passageways. Plus, there is a great hostel, The Berat Backpackers is a unique place high on the hill facing the Castle.
We headed out for some river rafting fun on the Osumi River and the towering, narrower canyon walls that line the river we paddled. The highest cliffs are said to be 150 meters with vines hanging precariously over our heads waiting to be swung on... We passed 3 waterfalls that cascaded down into the canyon from great heights, one of which we stopped at to take photos. It was quite magical!
So, our rafr trip cost $50 euros/person...we were told to meet at 10am and then head out for the 60-90 minute drive to where we were to put in for the 3 hour adventure. Back in town around 5pm.
Well, most of you know how this story really went (sideways, fast).....this is Albania...of course, things don't go like clockwork.
10am pick up, short drive and wait 90 minutes until rest of group arrives. Drive 2.5 hrs over narrow winding roads, ride the river... get off around 5pm, stop for beers and back in Berat around 7:30pm.
Aside from the haywire time schedule, it was a fantastic day. Our van ride out to the river included an Irish couple (retired), 2 Albanian women, an Iraqi doctor practicing in Sweden. By the time, we arrived at the river, we had really bonded...lots of laughs, discussions about Albania.....we decided we'd stay together as a unit for the trip down river.
Can't tell you how much fun our group had paddling together that day. Our raft guide, also happened to be the head of the rafting company.
We felt safe, and with the Albanian women translating our guide's commands/directions into English all made for a very fun Albanian wilderness adventure!
We moved on from Berat, but not before, we received a gift (Berat red wine) from the hotel we called home for 4 nights, along with a ride to the bus station by one of the hotel staff! Nice surprise.
Bus ride north to the beach town of Shengjin via Tirana proved uneventful, apart from getting into the wrong van that took us 30 minutes back on the road we just traveled on...(Hmm! Looks like we are back in Kansas!) ...anyway, after 2 hours of getting back on track...we headed north and arrived in Shengjin, just south of Shkoder ( near Montenegro)!
Visited the old castle in Lezhe perched high on its hilltop. A 2 km trek on groomed cobblestone streets.
The 'eyes' of the ancient mosque watch over the ghosts of the past and the whispers in the wind....
It looks like it is time to head north for our last few days in Albania......
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