Welcome to Mysterious Montenegro.....the name alone, should make one want to go there!
We crossed the Albanian/Montenegrin border without a hitch riding in a local furgon/van. Except for the 10 car wait which took about half an hour and 'beggar family' approaching every single car waiting in line, everything went fine. It was interesting to us that the authorities didn't chase them away!
Our first town was the Montenegran beach town of Ulcinj; a small, quaint, cobblestone, hilly town built in a lovely bay. Walking into the center of town, a local approached us asking if we needed a room. Sure! So, he took us up a steep hill to a home. (This form of hustle is very typical for these countries. He probably gets a commission for waiting in town for tourists to arrive). We looked at this room with a magnificent view of the bay and took it for 20 euros.
Our view
Our house
We walked around town and came across these sights...
Ulcinj
One of many restaurant views available
Such narrow streets
Walking through the downtown we noticed some activity near a mosque, and discovered it was a traditional wedding. When the bride and groom exited I tried to get some shots... then the bride motioned me closer and said I could take these shots. What a treat!
These two men were physically upporting her the entire time - perhaps her father and brother?
The bride wearing a golden headdress and very narrow pants such that her footsteps needed to be extremely small, almost like a shuffle. Maybe, that's why they were supporting her?
The intricate back
Thankfully the weather warmed enough for us on our second day so that we could go to tiny Liman Beach, 10 minutes from our room. Typical rocky beaches here... a little hard on the feet
On our return walk, came across these interesting trees that we think are a type of olive.
I couldn't resist this picture
While in Ulcinj, we heard about a spectacular train trip into the north to a town called Kolasin. So, off we went with some bus transfers to Bar. We walked down the street to the Bar train station and bought afternoon tickets (5euros/person) on the train for the 4hr ride into the back country of Montenegro. Several minutes later, we discovered an earlier train leaving Bar for the capital city of Podgorica. So, rather than wait around for the later train, we bought tickets and head to Podgorica.
Spent several hours in the downtown before boarding the 2 hour train ride to Kolasin. Once again, the scenery was spectacular, reaching heights of 1000 meters above the Tara Canyon (2nd in depth to the Grand Canyon) passing through many tunnels along the way with the longest one taking 6 minutes to pass through!
Kolasin is a small mountainous town that is famous for its skiing and hiking. Unfortunately, again, the mountain weather was cold (14C high) and wet.
After a $20euro night in a guesthouse, we treated ourselves to a wonderful spa resort called Bianca Resort and Spa. Google it for more info. What a treat to have a 25 metre pool to ourselves in low season, jacuzzi, sauna, turkish steam bath and massage. Who said independent, non-tour backpackers had to always end up in a hostel. So nice!!
We decided to return part way to the coast via the train and bussed from Podgorica, the current capital, and ended up in Cetinje. It is the old 15th C royal capital of Montenegro nestled in the mountains about one hour inland from the Adriatic Sea.
Cetinje is a lovely little town of around 15 000 has a large pedestrian way filled with coffee shops and restored buildings. Our walk took us to the monastery with its bell tower providing a view of the city and nearby meadows, church and historical buildings that have been repurposed.
We spent a half day with a car and driver and toured the Lovecan National Park, one of many national parks, visited a magnificent mountain top mausoleum built in the early 70's on the park's 2nd highest peak at 1650 m.
Feeling on top of the world
The mausoluem was built to hold Petrovic Njegos, a Montenegran ruler during the 1800's, as well as a poet and philosopher. The Njegos clan, (one of 9 tribes/clans in Montenegro) ruled the country for some period.
Petrovic wanted to be buried on the mountain top, overlooking his village. After years of political indecision, wars etc, the mausoleum was built.
Look closely...
Our guide, a local park ranger, showed us some of the many trails and lookouts. From the summit, you could see Croatia, Serbia, and Albania in the distance. On clear days, Italy is visible!
Even found some snow slowly melting at the top.
And, for road bikers, looking for more challenges, the road from Kotor to the summit and mausoleum, then down to Cetinje, provides more than enough. There's over 25 hairpins on either side of the 1650m mountain. Along with well paved roads, and eye-popping scenery, this ride can be attacked from either side. It should be on your bucket list!
After the great morning in Lovecan, we hopped onto a bus and headed out of Cetinje only to be delayed for 30 minutes by a traffic accident, along the narrow, twisty road. Surprised it hasn't happened sooner, given the way locals drive, traffic, size of vehicles etc.
Anyway, finally arrived back on the coast and have found the lovely, little beach town of Petrovac. Hemmed in by a backdrop of rugged mountains, the Adriatic laps gently on the gravelly beach. At the moment, this town has been spared the rampant development that seems to be everywhere on the Albanian/Montenegro coasts.
The town is sprucing itself up, getting ready for the maddening hordes that will descend ( we are told) in mid-June.
We found a wonderful 4th floor apartment, overlooking the water and old town center. Only 40euros/night. No discos, yet!
And here, we found....almost paradise... in the form of La Punta.
This beach bar/restaurant, located on the eastern end of the bay on the point, is heaven. This tennis court size slab of concrete has it all. Quiet, beer, food and deep water to snorkel in.
We laze the afternoon away under the blazing sun, watching airplanes high in the Adriatic blue sky crisscrossing above clear, cool seas like slow moving, shooting stars.
Petrovac and the surrounding coves/beaches have great crystal clear, rock strewn waters. Great for swimming or snorkeling, but not a ton of fish.
Albania and Montenegro seem to be lacking a lot of folkloric music. Instead, we listen to a range of 60-80s light rock.....everything from Elvis to Elton John. There's even Canadian content as well, with Shania Twain, Bryan Adams and Celine Dion! Haha!
Over the next week, we will slowly head to Croatia. The border is only about 2 hours, but there are still many bays, beaches, towns and mountain villages we may yet visit. ...
Some more random shots...
Cheers from our part of the world to yours!!😀
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